There is virtually nowhere else in the world which is so full of contrasts and (apparent?) contradictions. The massive metropolis has around 14 million inhabitants. But where are they all? The answer soon becomes clear in the rush hour, when the doors of the underground trains and trams will not close and the roads and urban motorways are hopelessly clogged up, or on the weekends, when Disneyland and the other amusement parks are amass with people.

But Tokyo also has a more serene side, with extensive gardens, avenues of cherry trees, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines set amidst the skyscrapers, all places of tranquillity and contemplation. And what museums! Not only does the city have huge world-famous collections, it also has charming little exhibitions, such as the museums of swords, kimonos, sake, or bonsai, where you can find out a great deal about the culture of everyday life in Japan.

Some 15 million people visit Japan's Disneyland every year. Interestingly, there are three times as many adult visitors as there are children… It gets very busy at the weekends, on bank holidays and during school and university holidays (mid-July to the end of August).

You might think about buying a kimono, fans and a parasol for those hot summer days. There are lots of photo and art galleries which are good hunting grounds for fans of modern Japanese art. The Sake Museum tells you everything you ever wanted to know about Japan's national drink, and also offers you a chance to sample it.

The gravel path to the shrine leads through a huge gateway (torii) made of cypress wood. The wide, sweeping roofs are characteristic of Japanese temple buildings. There are extravagant celebrations, complete with courtly music and bugaku dancing, here on May 3rd, November 1st, and to mark the Emperor's birthday on December 23rd.

The main building is devoted to Japan and houses a stunning collection of sculptures, paintings, prints, calligraphy, ceramics, metalwork and enamel work. A considerable amount is categorized as 'important cultural heritage' and a 'national treasure'. A small building next door exhibits the treasures of the Horyuji monastery in Nara (Thursdays only).

This choice collection of around 12,000 items - 80 to 100 exhibits are incorporated into an exhibition whose theme changes every month - offers an opportunity to study the whole range of this form of art, or simply to sit on one of the tatami mats in the contemplation corner and lose yourself in the pictures.

Two larger-than-life statues of gods guard the gateway to the forecourt of the temple hall. Incense, which is believed to have healing properties, burns in a bronze vessel, beside which is a fountain in which you wash your mouth and hands before entering the temple. Inside, believers offer their prayers and small monetary gifts to the goddess. In May, there are celebrations to mark the Sanja-matsuri shrine festival.

Recommended sento baths include Koshi No Yu (1-5-22 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku, Tokyo, tel. 81-3-3401-8324, daily except Tue, 3 pm-11 pm) and the Dai Ni Sakura Yu (6-6-2 Meijiingu-mae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, tel. 81-3-3400-5680, daily except Mon, 3:30 pm-11 pm). Don't forget your sponge bag!

The first people to turn up are the wholesalers, and hand signals and words begin to fly through the air. The whole event takes place at breakneck speed and in several different places at the same time. Thousands of people are involved. By 7 am, when the retailers join in, some 6,000 tons of goods have already changed hands. If you fancy trying a sample, the market is lined with restaurants and shops.